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May 20 Day 11

Awoke to sun in Prince Rupert around 7 AM.  Both of us make it down the hill for showers, a bit of a heave.  We depart around 9AM which is late for us.  But yesterday was a long day of driving two land windy roads and sightseeing.  Our campground is just on the outside of town, no special views or anything outstanding.  We are just down the street from where the Ak, BC and local ferries dock.  We have to retrace our steps back to the Cassiar junction about 150 miles.  All the way we have sun and the view is so different without the mists and going east.  There are many nice roadside stops with pit toilets but good views.  We are still amazed by this area’s resemblance to Turnagain Arm. We follow the Skeena River from its estuary with the sound/ocean upward.  This reverse route gives us new views of the mountains and glaciers, it is very beautiful with many waterfalls coming out of them.  There is a picture opp every mile.  We passed by Prince Rupert on the Ak Ferry two years ago.  We saw all these large trees floating out into the Inside Passage and thought it was from logging.  But after seeing PR from the land side we know it is this incredible river and the high tides that pull the trees out of the ground and send them out to sea.  We pass by ancient pictographs on the rocks, aka ancient graffiti.  We pass back through town of Terrace and see the mountains surrounding it very clearly.  This is a busy working town (18k) of many industries.  They hold a classical music festival every summer.  The drive down was worth it but we have taken it off the bucket list.

        We turn on to the Cassiar, Rt 37, at mile zero, only 450 miles to go. There is a sign that says, north to Alaska.  This is the alternate route that people can take.  It will bring us very close to the eastern side of the coastal mountains and it is usually the road less traveled.  We fuel up because there will not be many opps down the road. We meet up with an Ak RV so we are not the only ones using this road. The road is good and starts off with a few homes.  Soon we are riding highway that virtually floats on water in the deep valleys that beaver have flooded.  Soon there are no houses, businesses or phone/electric wires.  We start to see construction on new high tension power transition wires.  These are the big monsters that look alien.  Even though there is a need for the electric we are sick to see the gouges and scars on this undeveloped wilderness.  It is being done on a large scale with vast areas de-forested and insertion of these ugly poles.  The land is fragile and it doesn’t bounce back easily like at home.  Many large semi’s passing us coming from the north.  It used to be primarily a logging road but these trucks are carrying building supplies etc for the most part.  There is no train here so it has to be trucked in.  Most of the drivers behave themselves on these narrow roads without shoulders, but some come too fast and too close.  Gold mining is back here, logging etc.  The Red Chris mine is here, will have to look it up.  Much has changed since two years ago.  It’s a bit of a shock.

We see only 5 Black Bears, while 2 years ago we saw over 50 along the same stretch. Wondering if the construction and the heavier traffic is having a toll on them.  Chuck is counting bear scat on the road, we see more of it than the bears.  There are bears who run when we approach and the few who stand their ground and stare.  We would not want to meet them.  We slow down for our first moose siting.  A young one trying to cross the road.  It decides to run back into the brush.  It is an amazing thing.  These huge creatures can take two steps and disappear, they are masters of disguise.  The coastal mountains are out and very beautiful with low snow cover and glaciers.  We are riding on their eastern rim.  Just over their peaks is the Inside Passage.  Had we taken the more popular route we would be further from them.  The road is narrow with no shoulder and severe drop-off.  Even in the 3 foot drops we would not be able to get the RV back on the road.  It’s why everyone needs to behave.  The bridges are either wood slats or metal grate.  The grates make the RV slide around so have to go slow.  It is surprising good road quality.  We come to the Stewart/Hyder cut-off, where Canada and US come together very briefly at a dead end road at the top of the Portland Canal.  Just south of here is Ketchikan.  Hyder has a ghost town and we still had to go through Canadian customs when we visited two years ago.  Instead we turn into one of our favorite spots Meziadin Lake campground to have lunch.  Beautiful views, clear lake with island, and brand new facility.  They are called Provincial Parks here versus our state parks.  We still see no houses or gas stations.  The big work camps are visible for the electric line.  Out of the blue we come to Belle 2 Crossing campground at the Bell-Irving River where we stayed before.  The only people as residents place we have seen so far.  A beautiful alpine lodge and campsite.  The trees have still had the Spanish moss in them from near the ocean, it disappears after the summit.  We blithely determine we have enough fuel because surely there will be a place up the road.  We begin to start our climb to Ningunsaw Summit which is a water divide.  We continue to climb and ride a high ridge for a long time.  It is very early spring up here with snow in patches, lakes partly frozen and tight buds.  The new electric line marches away and once again it is us, the road and the land.  We pass by many beautiful lakes.  We are in the huge Stikine River (great river) flow.  As we pass through Gnat Pass we see many Woodland caribou along the road.  They are endangered species and incredible to see so many at once.  We run into a brief sleet storm.  The road through the tundra is built high and narrow like a long table.  Built with insulation layer and pipes that keep it drained it is surprising good quality except when it decides to crumble on the sides.  However, one slip and you’re off anywhere from 3 feet to 300 feet with no side rails.  We cringe when the big semis come at us.  We descend into the valley at 7-8% grade, hair pin turns and loose gravel.  Again, no trucks and we are glad.  No fuel at Iskut and that’s bad. We cross over the Arctic-Pacific Divide Summit, the divide between Pacific and Arctic watersheds.  Make it to Dease Lake where we are forced to pay $1.69 per liter, 5 liters is an imperial gallon, about $6.25 our gallon.  The RV takes $150.00 worth and we’re still not full.  We are further north and the light lingers until very late.  We decide to stop here for the night.  We make our way down the hill to the lake to a pretty campground.  The only thing separating us from the lake is a small shield of pines.  The lake is still mostly frozen and the wind off it is chilled.  We are the only ones here and far from the road so it will be very quiet.  The sun is setting around 10:30PM behind the mountains over the lake.  There are no services here so we must camp self contained.  The owner has WiFi through which we can use if we run the generator for the computer.  They did offer us water but they are drinking from the lake.  It has a giant filter on the pump but we defer.  Tomorrow is Brenna’s birthday.  She is on a flight to Boston for a wedding.  Will call her along the way.  Nighty night.  It’s been another long and exciting day.

RV Mileage total today 475

Total RV Mileage 3078

Total road miles 3,994

Hours traveled today:  11 hours with stops

       

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